Honduras in pictures

A few of Kevin´s cousins

Hiking to a river

The view from the roof of Kevin´s apartment in Danli

At a lookout above the city of Danli

Leaf, butterfly, or both?

Hitching a ride home from a swimming hole we hiked to.

First weeks in San Ramon

Adjusting to life in Nicaragua has been a bit more challenging to me than I had expected.  But, it's starting to feel like home and Ryan and I have established something resembling a routine.  Each morning we boil water for oatmeal and coffee and take cold showers. Because the Planting Hope office has been in the lull between coffee camps and the start of school, we have been able to relax and get to know the community rather than jumping into activities immediately. We usually spend our mornings reading, walking around, or studying Spanish. I brought several books to read about the history of Nicaragua. My favorite thus far has been Stephen Kinzer's Blood of Brothers. Our walks around town often lead us to the panaderia where we can sometimes find cinnamon rolls or cherry turnovers. 

The Planting Hope office where I've been staying

Our Peace Corps friend Kevin, leading us on a hike.

Ryan studies Spanish with Kevin. They use a Spanish textbook and Kevin gives him speaking tasks around town. I have language lessons with a woman named Juanita who lives next door. She has a 6 year old son who is shy, but really enjoys participating in our lessons. Juanita likes to teach through cooking. She goes over an ingredient list with me and describes the process while I take notes. Then, we cook together! So far we've made buñelos de yucca, enchilades de frijoles, gallo pinto, arroz de leche, indio viejo, and vigaron. Indio viejo is the only one that was too complicated for me to feel like I could replicate at home. Juanita had done a lot of prep work before I arrived because it was a special lunch for Ryan's birthday. I helped by chopping cilantro, mint, celery leaves, peppers, onions, and carrots. All of the flavors were fresh – nothing dried or powdered. She stewed meat which we pulled apart by hand and stirred over a fire with the vegetables and a corn flour liquid. The end product, a very thick stew served with rice was so delicious! As a special birthday touch, she also decided to decorate the “old Indian's face” using vegetables before bringing Ryan in for the surprise. 

Cooking with Juanita

Juanita is well educated and has traveled to Italy, Sweden, and several Central and South American countries. She speaks very passionately and precisely which means that there are usually many English cognates. Once I'm warmed up, I feel like I'm understanding most of what she says. She's so enthralling to listen to that I unfortunately don't get much speaking practice, but I'm absorbing all I can. One of my best days with Juantia was when I brought Blood of Brothers to class. We looked at the photos in the middle of the book together. She had the strongest reaction when she saw Reagan; “This man,” she said, “caused so much suffering in Nicaragua.” Although she was a child during the Sandinista revolution, she remembers the rations, the shortages, and the hunger. She expressed her disappointment with the current government who are changing the rules to stay in power. She sees it as a repetition of the Somoza dynasty but with Sandinista rhetoric. “Yo soy Sandinista, pero no soy Ortegista,” she declared.

Ryan's birthday lunch!

In general I've really enjoyed the food here. One of the most common dishes – a simple mixture of rice and beans called gallo pinto (painted rooster) – is probably my favorite. We often eat lunch at a home/restaurant where they serve a simple meal of rice, salad, a salty cheese called cuajada, and a piece of grilled meat. I can ask for mine to be vegetarian and they give me pieces of avocado instead of the meat. Dinner is similar to lunch: rice, beans, sometimes grilled meat, and the ever present tortillas and plantains. Plantains are amazingly simple to use. When fried, the ripe ones are sweet. The green ones can also be boiled or fried and are often served with cuajada or refried beans. Plantains are commonly made into thin chips and sold on the street.

A vista near San Ramon

We enjoy a break in the routine every Friday night when we go to El Rancho for pizza and karaoke. El Rancho is a hotel and restaurant at the edge of San Ramon which operates as an employee-owned co-op. They serve amazing pizzas and have a popular karaoke night where locals come to sing and dance. Both of these activities are made more lively under the influence of Flor de Cana—a surprisingly tasty Nicaraguan rum that is fairly inexpensive.  We got a tour of El Rancho one evening by a manager named Leo. He took us to the organic garden and composting projects that provide most of the fruits and vegetables used in the restaurant. They have a spa house project under construction where they hope to expand their massage and reiki practice. We walked past the eco-friendly bungalows, up the hill to a lookout of the city, and finally back to the hotel for some passion fruit juice and an engaging discussion about what the Rancho does for San Ramon. Started just a few years ago, the Rancho has gone from employing eight people, to over forty. Their goal is to be a profitable hotel and restaurant for the purpose of creating jobs. Profits are invested back into the business and into projects that will employ more people. Salaries of the highest paid employees are not allowed to surpass three times that of the lowest paid. The whole place is run with excellence and it's obvious that the employees are invested in what they are doing. I also sometimes go to El Rancho for a bi-weekly zumba class.

Ryan and me with Leo at El Rancho

Another amazing business that Ryan and I visited is the Finca Esperanza Verde. The Finca was started as an NGO by two former Peace Corps volunteers. They slowly bought coffee farming land and as a side activity, built some bungalows that housed groups who traveled to the farm to volunteer. Last year, the founders sold the struggling farm to Andrew and Vivianne Arango who had been looking to buy or start an eco-lodge in Central America. Andrew is a retired police officer and Vivianne is an interior designer. Neither of them had any coffee experience, much less organic farming skills. Vivianne speaks Spanish, but Andrew has been learning as he goes. Needless to say, the learning curve is steep, but they have met the challenge. With the spread of La Roya (leaf rust) their coffee crop has struggled, but they are investing for the future with new plants (which will reach full production in about three years). The Finca won the Cup of Excellence in 2007 and the coffee that we tasted while there was still amazing despite the challenges. They have also been renovating and expanding the lodge and bungalows—especially by adding windows and porches to the west walls where they have a fabulous panoramic view of the sunset over the mountains. Andrew talked to Ryan and I for a couple of hours and was very candid about the struggles, but he also emphasized the fulfillment and importance of investing in loyal employees by noticing their strengths and giving them opportunities to advance. The Finca is quite expensive by Nicaraguan standards (about $50 per night on average), but Andrew and Vivianne have more requests for bookings than they have bungalows at the moment. Although they were too full for us to spend the night, the free coffee, relaxation in their hammocks, and the conversation made the day trip well worth the effort.

A view from the Finca Esperanza Verde

Another good place for a for a day trip is Matagalpa –just a 30 minute bus ride from San Ramon. Matagalpa is a major city in northern Nicaragua and we go there when we need a phone card, groceries, a pharmacy, etc.  At a cafe called Seleccion, we met another ex-pat named Amanda. Amanda works for Thrive Coffee—a business that grades coffee and then connects farmers and coffee buyers in the states who want specialty coffee with a story attached. They have goals of improving environmental and working conditions on the farms from which they export, but their main focus is the quality of the coffee and giving farmers a fair price through a more direct relationship with consumers.  I have really appreciated getting to learn from people like Leo, Amanda, and Andrew and Vivianne who are making a difference through their businesses.

Coming up, I will post some pictures of Honduras where we visited Kevin's family.  For the next five weeks we are holding English classes both in Matagalpa (twice a week) and in San Ramon.  I am moving into a home stay where I will hopefully be challenged to speak more Spanish.  Three brigades of volunteers are coming to San Ramon during March so the office of Planting Hope will be working at full capacity.  

Reviving the Blog

Wow, it's been awhile since I updated this blog!  Unfortunately, once I moved to Beijing I didn't have access to a VPN so the "great firewall of China" kept me from accessing blogspot.  The last 6 months of my time in China were wonderful.  Although I was a bit nervous at first about living in a city the size of Beijing, I am so glad that I had the opportunity.  I'm not sure how to sum it all up so here is 6 months in pictures:

Ryan loves BBQ pork from Guangzhou!

The Temple of Heaven in Beijing

Street food in Guangzhou

The train to Xi'an - high speed trains in China travel at 300km/hour

My parents (Lewis and Becky) and Aunt and Uncle (Ken and Vicki) at Tiananmen Square.  We had a wonderful week together before I left China. 

The Terracotta Warriors in Xi'an - very impressive in person!

My dad trying a flight of Slowboat beers.  I worked as a part time cook for a few months at this brewery taproom.

My mom at a pulled noodle class at The Hutong.  What a pro!

My next adventure starts this evening as I fly to Nicaragua.  Ryan and I have an opportunity to volunteer with an organization called Planting Hope in San Ramon (near Matagalpa).  What we will be doing depends on the needs of the NGO, but I am hoping to study Spanish, play with kids, and learn a lot about Nicaraguan culture.  We will volunteer from Jan. 29th - April 2nd and then return to the U.S.  At that point we will have a few weeks to regroup before heading to Alaska for seasonal work at a family-owned resort called Winterlake Lodge.  It's in a remote location that can only be reached by float plane or helicopter!  

I look forward to sharing thoughts and pictures as I experience Nicaragua during the next two months!

Goodbye Ningbo, Hello Beijing!

I am moving to Beijing at the end of June!  Disney decided to close the center where I have been working so I had the opportunity to transfer to another city.  I am excited to experience another part of China and to live in the same place as Ryan!

I will miss Ningbo.  One of the best things about living here has been meeting people from a very wide variety of backgrounds.  I made of list recently of the countries from which I have met people.  Here it is:

the US, Canada, Mexico, Cuba, Columbia, England, Ireland, Scotland, France, Spain, Germany, Italy, Greece, Cyprus, Bulgaria, Albania, Turkey, Serbia, Ukraine, Armenia, Poland, Russia, India, Congo, South Africa, PNG, Malaysia, the Philippines, and Iceland

Yes, even Iceland!  There is an immediate commonality with foreigners from even the most obscure places because we are all outsiders here.  We all get stared at.  We all have to communicate as we can in a foreign language.  And, we all ended up in Ningbo!  Ningbo is not a place that people generally plan on coming to.  So, most foreigners have an interesting story to explain their presence. 

In my final weeks here I have been trying to enjoy all of my favorite places plus do things that I hadn’t made time for yet.  Such as, a bike ride to the coast.  So yesterday, armed with an inadequately detailed map, I headed east.  It took a little less than two hours to reach the Beilun harbor, but unfortunately I didn’t even get a chance to see the water.  That part of town is strictly industrial – lots of containers, cranes, oil drums, and semis.  Not only was I a little out of place on my bike, I was also not allowed into the harbor area.  I looked at my map and saw a nice little island about an hour south.  It looked like it had just one small road around it and a cute little bridge that would be a pleasant excursion.  Here is what I saw instead:

More containers, cranes, factories, oil drums, etc.  And really brown water.  I knew I was in trouble when the road I was on turned into a windy elevated highway with a very narrow shoulder.  I was constantly getting passed by semis who enjoyed blaring their horns and gawking at the tourist on a bike.  So, the ride was a bit of a disappointment, but at least I know what I’m not missing!  Also, I got to spend 7 sunny hours on my bike! 

I also recently visited the Tiantong temple which is one of the largest Buddhist temples in China.  It is about an hour out of town by bus.  The mountains were lovely and it had just rained that morning so the air was misty and fresh. 

Please not that there is "no hullabaloo" allowed at the temple!

In the next couple of weeks I am revisiting Shanghai and getting to meet up with Carla, my former co-worker.  The next weekend I have plans for a trip to Hangzhou with Marsha and Vicky – two other lovely co-workers.  The weekend after that, I will be in Beijing! 

Before we knew about the center closing, I had booked tickets Beijing to visit Ryan and see the Great Wall at the end of May.  I thoroughly enjoyed my visit and I got to drop off most of the stuff that I will be moving there.  We went to the Badaling portion of the wall, which is a very convenient, 6 kuai ($1) train ride away from the city.  It was an exceptionally clear day and not too crowded.  Here are some pictures: 

The Orange Team

As anticipated, Charlie was stolen recently.  I was able to see a surveillance video that showed a man picking my bike lock in the middle of the afternoon.  Unfortunately, the police weren't able to identify him.  Although I can't really replace Charlie, I have bought another bike: Faye.  Faye is decidedly more sleek and lightweight.  

I needed a road bike anyway because I've started riding with "The Orange Team."  My former co-worker, Kimi, introduced me to his riding group in early April.  My schedule allows me to do morning training rides with them on Wednesdays and Thursdays.  On my first ride with them, I realized that I was in over my head as soon as the three other riders showed up on their skinny bikes wearing racing jerseys and clip-on shoes.  I  was able to keep up for the first 45 minutes of the ride, but only by drafting aggressively behind one of the other riders who was kind enough to let me keep pace with him.  As soon as we hit hills though, I was done. The ride was 66km and a challenge for me for sure!  On the next ride, it was even more difficult because it was rainy and the roads were soggy.  Keeping up by drafting meant a steady spray of mud and water in my face.  By the end of the ride the rain had stopped and the road grit was hardening on my face like a spa mask  -- except that instead of infusing my skin with vitamins and antioxidants, this mask contained whatever viruses and bacteria were on the roads. 

My face after the rainy ride.

I was pretty sure I would have bird flu or at least a severe eye infection the next day.  I survived though, and for the next ride I was happy to be on a faster bike.  I am still at a hopeless disadvantage, but at least I have a fighting chance!  

I am enjoying getting to know the other riders.  A couple of weeks ago one of the riders hosted a get together at his house.  It was a lovely afternoon with delicious home cooked food and conversations in a delightful mix of Chinese and English.

Charlie and I on our last ride at Dongqian lake

Biking party food

Things you don't hear on the news

China gets a lot of bad press.  Whether it’s the thousands of pigs dumped in Shanghai rivers, the H7N9 bird flu virus, Beijing’s “airpocalypse,” or currency manipulation, most of what gets publicized is negative.  These things are certainly worrisome, but they are only background threads to the fabric of daily life.  With that in mind, here are a few things you don’t hear about on the news:

In China it’s perfectly socially acceptable to wear pajamas in public.  I see people on the street in pajamas on a daily basis.  One evening I left work and even spotted a young couple walking hand in hand wearing matching flannel PJs.  Amazing!

Christmas is apparently a year-round celebration.  Although slightly more common in December, I still regularly find myself humming along with “We Wish You a Merry Christmas” in department stores.  Today I did my Chinese homework in Starbucks to the tune of “Sleigh ride,” “Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer,” and “It’s the Most Wonderful Time of the Year.”

Spring weather has arrived with means “split pants” are back in fashion for toddlers.  Split pants are just like regular ones except that where the crotch seam usually is, there is a hole instead.  The toddlers also don’t wear underwear which makes potty training supremely convenient!  A parent whose child needs to pee need only find the nearest bush, trashcan, or curb.  Unfortunately, this tendency to pee anywhere extends into adulthood.  Despite the abundance of public toilets in China, many men opt to urinate everywhere else.  I have learned from experience that it’s best not to look too closely at any man standing by himself, looking down.  It generally results in blushing on my part J  

Life in Ningbo

Vacation is over and I’m back in Ningbo, enjoying my daily routine.   I thought I would share a little information about what normal life is like for me. 

This is my apartment:

There are two bedrooms, a nice kitchen and bathroom, a huge living room, and a small sun room for laundry.  I am on the 6^th floor, unfortunately with no elevator, but the stairs are good exercise! 

My apartment is very conveniently located.  It takes 10 minutes to bike to work and 20 minutes to downtown.  There is also a bus stop just across the street where I can catch buses every 15 minutes to these places on rainy days.  I am in the middle of a complex of 6-floor apartment buildings that spans an entire city block.  That makes it very quiet and safe.  There are three entrances with gates that are staffed 24 hours a day.  I have everything I need on a day to day basis within a 5 minute walk: street food, a hairdresser, my bank branch, a pharmacy, two bike shops, three major grocery stores, a gym, a cinema, H&M, Marks and Spencer, and a Starbucks!  

I almost always go across the street to get an egg pancake for breakfast.  A man with a bike cart is there from about 6:00-9:00am.  He has a coal fire griddle on his cart where he ladles some batter and spreads it out thinly like a crepe.  Then he breaks an egg and sprinkles green onion.  Flip!  Now it’s time for sauces and smoked chicken.  He wraps it up and places it in a thin plastic bag.  I walk about 20 yards to another food stand where they make you tiao – a long piece of fried dough, and da bing – a piece of flatbread cooked with lard and onions.  They have a clay oven with a coal fire where they stick the pieces of dough to the side.  One side cooks from the heat of the oven, the other from the open fire.  Delicious!  There is also a fruit stand where I can get fresh oranges or strawberries.  For lunch my standard fare is pulled noodles at one of the Xinjiang restaurants.   There you can watch dough being pulled and twisted like salt water taffy and then suddenly transformed into noodles by being separated through the chef’s fingers.  The fresh noodles are dipped into a huge vat of boiling water and then are sent to the kitchen to be stir fried with vegetables and a little beef.  I rarely cook at home because the street food is cheap and delicious, but I do have oatmeal on hand which serves me well when I get off work late and don’t have the energy to go out. 

Speaking of work…  My job plays a very nominal part in my China experience.  I appreciate it, however, because it is a visa and a paycheck.  I work at a Disney English center (one of three in Ningbo) where parents bring children from ages 2-12 to learn English from native speakers.  All of the Disney principles apply: putting on a show, guest service, attention to detail, and building brand image.  It’s hard for me not to sound a little cynical when talking about Disney.  I don’t find much meaning or fulfillment there.  My lessons are planned for me, I am teaching wealthy students, and I am a piece of Disney’s overall marketing strategy to increase brand loyalty for their theme parks (particularly the one that is being built in Shanghai).  Overall, I can’t complain though.  I have a clean, happy work environment, spend time with adorable children, work for a reputable, fair company, and got my TEFL-C certificate from Columbia.  Also, my schedule is wonderful.  I work long days on the weekend (8-12 hours), but on weekdays I don’t work until 1:30pm.  I get Wednesday and Thursday off each week.  I also have great co-workers (3 out of the 4 foreign trainers at our center are former Peace Corps volunteers!).  I came to Disney with the expectation that it would be a job – a way to live in China and nothing more.  It is exactly that.  I don’t worry about work when I’m home and I have no intention to advance with Disney.  Someday I’d like to have a job that I really care about, but for now, while learning Chinese and adjusting to a new culture, Disney is working out just fine. 

When I’m not at work or home there are several places where I’m likely to be.  One of those is the gym across the street.  They have daily yoga classes (on some days up to three classes!) and my schedule allows me to attend about 4 times a week.  I really love listening to the Chinese instructors.  Their voices are so soothing they seem to lull us into flexibility.  On the days when I can’t do yoga, I have found a really amazing place to go jogging.  The heart of downtown Ningbo is the intersection of three rivers.  All along the river banks, the city has built parks and pedestrian zones.  I have a 5km route where I never have to cross a street or deal with traffic!  Plus, the scenery is beautiful!  When I get tired of noodles and dumplings, there are several foreign restaurants where I’ve become a regular.  Thai, Indian, and Greek are my favorites.  I eat at the Greek restaurant exactly once a week and I always order the same thing: hummus and tzatziki.  It helps fulfill my craving for Bulgarian yogurt.  On Wednesdays I also have an individual two hour Chinese class.  My teacher’s name is YoYo and we are getting along well! 

So far I have experienced Ningbo weather from December – March.  We have had three brief dustings of snow and a fair amount of rain and cold, but overall it’s been a very mild and pleasant winter.  There were a handful of days in January that were 65 degrees and sunny!  Now that it’s spring, the beautiful days are even more frequent.  I know we will pay later for the weather we enjoyed in the winter though.  Every Ningbo resident shares horror stories of the humidity and mosquitoes in the summer.  

Flowering trees outside my apartment